On a String and a Song

The puppet traditions of India are richly diverse and historical. Puppetry is an intricate and colorful folk art that has been handed down the generations.

Puppetry takes many forms in the process of animating objects through human agency. As objects deciphering meanings within a narrative structure and as characters brought alive through artistic brilliance, puppets— within a system of language—operate as agencies of revelation. 

The earliest reference to puppetry is found in the Tamil classic, Silappadikaaram, written around the 2nd century BC. In the Buddhist work, Therigatha, there are references to various kinds of puppets as also in the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. ‘Sutradhara’ in classical Indian theater literally means ‘holder of strings’ and refers to the one who introduces and directs the play. Puppet theater has been in existence in India for thousands of years to entertain and teach people about Hindu religious heroes. Archaeologists at Harappa and Mohenjodaro in the Indus Valley discovered parts of clay dolls with holes for strings, supporting the theory that puppet theater existed more than 5,000 years ago.

Perhaps the origins of puppetry can be dated back to the prehistoric period when Man, living in caves, was enamored of the dancing shadows cast on the walls by his cooking fires, perceiving himself and his fellow beings, with all their gestures and attempts at communication, replicated visually upon the cave walls. This seems to be the genesis of Man’s efforts to recreate his own likeness. Images and idols were also used for shamanic rituals, to appease malevolent natural forces.

The religious aspects of puppetry developed especially in South India Tour when shadow puppets performed stories and episodes from the epics and the Bhagavat Purana. Puppets have featured in major religious festivals like Shivratri at the Srisailam Temple of Andhra Pradesh as indigenous entertainment. Tolpava Koothu, a puppet play of Kerala, is performed as part of the annual festival in temples of Bhagavati or Bhadrakali in Palghat, Kerala.

The sense of sacredness of the puppets could be discerned from the fact that they enacted stories and episodes taken from the epics and the Puranas, and also deriving from local beliefs. Disfigured or torn puppets are never kept along with intact puppets. Once the puppets can no longer be presented to audiences due to excessive wear and tear, after appropriate worship they are either consigned to the river or symbolically cremated. In some puppet traditions, the marking of eyes on the puppet, which signifies the infusion of life into it, is observed with sacrifices. The puppets are also worshiped on certain religious occasions.

As a ritual, puppeteers regularly apply Neem or eucalyptus oil on the puppets. This acts as a protective agent against insects and fungus. For the puppeteers, the puppets are not merely theatrical devices to earn a livelihood but revered objects deserving care. In certain puppet traditions of India, the performers fasted before the show and sacrifices were made while putting up posts for the erection of stages. Such proceedings invested the performance of puppets with an aura of mystic ritual. Puppet theater also serves as a means of spreading religious ethos and beliefs through the enactment of plays with religious themes. Apart from providing entertainment, puppet shows disseminate important ethical lessons, especially through the portrayal of conflict between good and evil and the ultimate victory of the former.

While anyone can move a puppet, it needs a skilled puppeteer to lend life to it. In India, puppetry is a living tradition and 18 different forms of puppetry exist, belonging to 11 states. There are mainly four genres of puppetry commonly found—shadow puppets, rod puppets, string puppets and glove puppets. Shadow puppets are one- dimensional—flat cut-outs of paper or leather that are projected against a tightly stretched white cloth screen so that the audience sees the shadow of the puppet on this screen. Shadow puppets are found in Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala, Maharashtra, Odisha and Tamil Nadu. Glove puppets are also known as hand puppets. In this form, the puppeteer wears the puppet like a glove and fits his fingers into the hollow head of the puppet and controls its movements. This form of puppetry is found commonly in Kerala, Uttar Pradesh, Odisha and West Bengal. The rod puppets, often larger than glove puppets, are supported and controlled by rods of various types and sizes. Rod puppets are commonly found in Jharkhand, Odisha and West Bengal. String puppets are also known as marionettes, where the body parts of the puppets are connected through strings which are used to control their movement. This form of puppetry is prevalent in Andhra Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Karnataka, Maharashtra, Rajasthan, Odisha, Tamil Nadu and West Bengal. While Rajasthani puppets—Kathputli—seem to be omnipresent, other forms are equally colorful!

Kathputli-Rajasthani String Puppets 

According to an Indian legend, the origin of puppetry is attributed to Brahma (the deity who was assigned the function of creating the universe and is the first of the Hindu Trinity). It is said that, for the entertainment of his consort, Saraswati, Brahma created and gave life to the Adi, the first nat or puppeteer. He then created another figure for the Adi to manipulate and thereby entertain the goddess. However, Brahma was not very pleased with his efforts and he banished the puppeteer to Earth. Hence the birth of the first bhat. It is conjectured that this legend might have originated in Rajasthan Tours since the nat bhats are the caste of puppeteers belonging to the region.

Kathputlis are like large wooden dolls—carved from a single piece and dressed rather colorfully. Their large eyes, arched eyebrows and well-defined lips give these puppets a life-like appearance. The garments are inspired by the traditional colorful attire of medieval Rajasthan that is popular even today. The Kathputlis are made to ‘dance’ with two to five strings that are tied to a puppeteer’s fingers, which he moves to make the puppets dance animatedly. The stories performed by the natbhats range from tales based on reworkings of the epics to legends espousing the heroism and valour of the local heroes. The narratives of Amar Singh Rathore, Prithviraj Chauhan and Dhola-Maru are popular folk legends interpreted through puppetry.

Bahulya—Maharashtra’s string puppets Bahuli means a doll and its plural is bahulya. Most bahulyakars or puppeteers usually belong to nomadic tribes and are always on the move, taking their puppets and theater equipment with them wherever they go. The puppets are made of clay or carved from the light wood of the pangara or coral tree. According to the character represented, the height varies from 20 to 45 cm. Each figure is divided into two sections. Leather puppets are called Chamadyachya Bahulya or Chamadi Chitre and string puppets are called Kalasutri Bahulya. The performances usually start with an invocation to Lord Ganesh and Saraswati. In bahulya, stories are mostly narratives centered around the elephant-headed god, Ganesh, and his exploits though legends of Chhatrapati Shivaji also abound. Stories from the Ramayana are an all-time favorite. This is one form of puppetry that needs a desperate boost as it is on the verge of dying out.

Pavakathakali—Kerala Glove Puppets 

In Kerala, the traditional glove puppet play is called Pavakoothu or Pavakathakali. This form, that came into Besides its artistic side, puppetry also has cultural significance, especially in South India, where shadow puppets are used to enact stories from the epics existence during the 18th century is believed to be heavily influenced by Kathakali, the classical dance-drama of Kerala. The height of Pavakathakali puppets varies from one to two feet. The head and the arms are carved of wood and joined together with thick cloth, cut and stitched into a small bag. Legends from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata constitute the more popular narratives.

Ravanachhaya—Oriya Shadow Puppets 

Ravanachhaya is one of the most dramatic forms of puppetry since it relies on the interplay of light and shadows. The puppets are joint-less and are made in one whole piece out of deerskin leather. They are not colored, hence they throw opaque shadows on the screen. Apart from human and animal characters, many props such as trees, mountains, chariots and so on are also used. Although Ravanachhaya puppets are smaller in size, the largest not more than two feet, since they have no-joint limbs they throw very sensitive and lyrical shadows.

Tholu Bommalata—Andhra Pradesh 

Andhra Pradesh’s shadow theater has a rich and strong tradition. These shadow puppets differ from Odisha’s shadow puppets in that they are not only colored on both sides but also have joints at the waist, shoulders, elbows and knees. Being coloured, they throw colored shadows on the screen. The themes derive from the Puranas, Ramayana and Mahabharata and the music is influenced by the classical music of the region. The manipulators of these shadow puppets in Andhra Pradesh are known as Pulavars—meaning scholars or poets—emphasizing the respect accorded to them.

Baner Putul, West Bengal 

Puppetry has a rich tradition in Bengal that thrives not only on epic stories, but also Bengali literature and now even contemporary issues such as AIDS awareness, female infanticide and so on. Baner Putul, or dolls of commercial people, is a form of puppetry most popular in southern West Bengal. The puppeteers characteristically belong to the scheduled caste of Kahar, the palanquin-bearers of yore. The puppets are nearly two feet high, with terracotta heads and wooden arms. The puppeteers sing songs during the show and play small drums called domru to attract crowds. The puppets have anklets fixed on the arms, which are used to keep rhythm by clapping. There are pairs of male and female puppets manipulated by the puppeteers with both hands. The themes are based on social events such as linguistic differences, escapades of lovers, and even family planning. The puppeteer begins his career early in life and roams from fair to fair, charging money for each song.

Bommalattam—String Puppets of Tamil Nadu 

Bommalattam, the puppet theater of Tamil Nadu, combines the techniques of both rod and string puppets. They are made of wood and the strings for manipulation are tied to an iron ring which the puppeteer wears like a crown on his head. A few puppets have joint arms and hands, which are manipulated by rods. The Bommalattam puppets are the largest, heaviest and most articulate of all traditional Indian marionettes. Bommalattam performances are given in villages and temples to ensure rain as well as to placate the gods to prevent outbreak of disease. The puppeteers perform ritualistic sacrifices before fashioning the puppets and also once they are complete. While making characters like Ravana, Kali and the like, fowls are sacrificed and the puppets are given a black tinge as the final touch.

Bommalattam theater has elaborate preliminaries which are divided into four parts—Vinayak puja, Komali, Amanattam and Pusenkanattam. 

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Panchgani Call of the Monuments

There’s a reason why the British chose Panchgani as a favourite summer resort. Make that many reasons. The name means five hills and the beautiful mountains make this the perfect getaway from Mumbai when you want respite from the noise, heat and pace of the city. The mountain air is pure and Panchgani enjoys mild weather through the year. As winter creeps up, it turns colder, adding to its charms. So, pull on your warm clothes and head for the higher climes of Panchgani, where you can take quiet walks amidst woods where the silver oak stands. At this time of year, the poinsettia begins to bloom as well, brightening the hillside with its hues.

While slowing down and watching the mist roll across the mountains is most people’s idea of a break in Panchgani, there’s plenty to do and see as well. Sydney Point, situated on a hillock facing the Krishna Valley, is a perfect spot from which to take in views of the Dhom Dam and Pandavgad. Visit also Table Land, an imposing expanse of laterite rock, considered the second longest mountain plateau in Asia. Stop for scenic views at Parsi Point en route Mahabaleshwar. Devil’s Kitchen, at the southern end of Table Land, is wrapped in myth and worth taking a look at. It is believed that the Pandavas made the place their home for a while and also created the Pandavgad caves nearby. 

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The Country's Southern Trip

The southern-most tip of the Indian subcontinent is known for the Virgin Goddess who presides over it, with her gaze upon the ocean and beyond. While it’s been known mainly as a pilgrimage spot, there is much else to see and do here. Begin, of course, with the graceful oceanside temple—believed to be over 3,000 years old, mentioned in the Puranas and the epics. It’s also revered as one of the powerful Shakti Peeths established by the sage, Parashurama.

Given Kanyakumari’s scenic location, it’s a great place for catching both spectacular sunrises and sunsets. For a few hours of tranquility, head to the Vivekananda Memorial that sits on a rock mid-sea. The meditation hall here is a secular space, where you should spend some quiet time. Its stillness and spiritual vibe are bound to create a sense of calm.

There are several monuments to see here— the Gandhi Memorial, dedicated to the Father of the Nation, the mammoth statue of Thiruvalluvar, the Tamil poet-sage, and a more recent construction, the Tsunami Memorial Park built in the memory of those who lost their lives in the natural disaster. Not far from Kanyakumari is the scenic, unspoiled Muttom beach, which has featured in several films. It makes for an excellent getaway for enjoying some surf and sand.

Kanyakumari is also a good base from which to explore the Kerala border. The Pechiparai dam, Thirparappu Falls and ancient Suchindram temple are all in the region and well worth making day trips to. The state tourism department runs circular bus services to these popular spots.

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The Divine Re - Birth

Be at Pun for NabakaIebar—a distinctive festival of Lord Shree Jagannath, which sees millions of devotees come together to mark the occasion.

Majority of the ten million plus domestic tourists and close to hundred thousand foreigners visit Odisha every year to enjoy its amazing tourism destinations. The state offers temples and monuments, art and architecture, music and dance, handloom and handicrafts fairs and festivals and a host of other tourism products. However, the holy town of Puri on the coast of Bay of Bengal attracts maximum number of tourists. ShreeKhetra—as the town is religiously cited—is one of the four cardinal centres (Chaar Dhaams) for devout Hindus. It is believed that a Hindu must visit this sacred place at least once in his/her lifetime to attain moksha.

It is in Puri that you find the magnificent 12th century shrine of Shree Jagannath Temple, where the idols of deities, namely, Shree Jagannatha, Lord Balabhadra, Devi Subhadra and Lord Sudarsana are dragged on huge chariots by millions of devotees during the Ratha Yatra (Car Festival). In fact, amongst all the fairs and festivals associated with the Lord, devotees and visitors wait for this ten days long celebration to have a glimpse of the Lord of the Universe in the Bada-danda (Grand road) outside the shrine.

This year’s Ratha Yatra in July is going to be a spectacular event, because the Chaturdha Murti (four idols) in the Jagannath Temple at Puri will take on new bodies in a very unique ritual called Nabakalebara. The term Nabakalebara is derived from the Sanskrit words, naba meaning new and kalebara meaning body. Unlike many other Hindu shrines, the idols in Puri temple are made of the holy neem (Azadirachta indica) wood. The deities are also known as ‘DaruBrahma’, meaning Brahma (Divine life force) contained in Daru (holy tree/wood).

As per an elaborate religious practice, they are changed at periodic intervals (usually once in 12-19 years). Nabakalebara in 2015 will be the first in the 21st century, while it has been celebrated in 1912,1931, 1950, 1969, 1977 & 1996 in the last century. Nabakalebara takes place when two lunar months of Asadha (with an adhikamasa or intercalary month of Asadha) fall in a year of the Hindu almanac. In an age with hyped media and over-circulating digital content, this year’s ceremony has generated lot of interest amongst the devotees and enthusiasts alike.

The state government is expecting a footfall of 5 million during this Nabakalebara festival and leaving no stone unturned to make it the grandest of all to draw attention of the whole world.

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Lava - West Bengal

Sitting at the entrance to the Neora Valley National Park, Lava is a tiny hamlet located to the east of Kalimpong in Darjeeling district. But what makes Lava unusual is the fact that it is not only unspoilt but is among the very few places that receive snowfall in West Bengal.

Located at an altitude of 7,016 ft, predictably, the route to Lava is scenic with a gradual change in vegetation. As the plains give way to the hills, the vegetation changes from tropical deciduous to alpine trees such as pine, fir and birch. The change is quite dramatic and the beautiful forested areas are ideal for picnics or long, leisurely walks. For more strenuous adventure, try trekking as well. The thick forests are also home to an incredible number of winged creatures, so be sure to pack your binoculars and go birdwatching at dawn to see such birds as the common hill partridge, tragopan and peacock-pheasants. For the most fantastic views of the peaks, walk along a pretty pathway to Rishyap, about four km away, from where the mighty Himalaya are visible in all their glory or head to Changey to gaze at a scenic waterfall.

For nature and wildlife enthusiasts, there are plenty of animals in the forests, including endemic species such as the Himalayan black bear and barking deer.

In town, don’t miss the quaint watch tower. For a change of scene, head to the beautiful and serene Jamgyond Kongtul Buddhist monastery which is set against breathtaking scenery and induces a sense of peace and calm. 

Lava is not all that popular but there are many small guesthouses and lodges where guests can experience local hospitality and food.  These include rustic log houses and small huts built in the midst of the forest which can be rented. Some of these are located at strategic points and offer spectacular views of sunrise.

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Walking with the Bishnois

The love that the Bishnois have for other forms of life is the stuff legends are made of. So if you would like to be woken up early in the morning by the call of peafowl or open your eyes to find a chinkara staring right back, the Bishnoi villages near Jodhpur are a haven for you. A Bishnoi treats these animals as family. It is said that if you are a hunter, then the worst thing that could happen to you is to be caught hunting by a Bishnoi. It is because of their protection that, in Bishnoi-dominated areas, deer, bluebull, blackbuck, chinkara and chousingha are seen grazing peacefully in the fields.


A 40-minute drive from Jodhpur will take you to Khejarli village— where one actually comes to realise the true meaning of ‘loving wildlife.’ Khejarli is also where the Chipko movement originated as early as 1730. It is said that the ruler, Maharaja Abhay Singh, sent men to fell the khejri trees surrounding the village. Amrita Devi and her three daughters hugged the trees, saying, “Sir, santhe runkh raheb, toh bhi sastojaan (it is a small price to pay if, at the cost of my head, a tree can be saved).” By the time the news reached the king, 363 Bishnois had sacrificed their lives.

The village women are often seen cradling blackbuck fawns alongside their own children. Apart from the variety of deer and peafowl, many birds such as white-eared bulbuls, ibises, partridges, quails, demoiselle cranes and other migratory birds can be seen. Though Khejarli is a day trip from Jodhpur, do try and have a meal with the Bishnois—their warmth knows no bounds. The best time to be there is between October and March, summer is really hot.

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Odisha’s World of Wonders

The Diversity and Richness of the Flora and Fauna of the State Attracts Eco-Tourists From Around the World.

Olive ridley turtles in millions, travelling thousands of miles to nest on its beaches...tigers that roam through the autumnal splendour of luxuriant and old sal forests...saw-toothed crocodiles and gharials whose home is the splenditerous Satkosia Gorge...dancing dolphins cavorting near Asia’s biggest brackish water lake...a fabulous mangrove eco-system waiting to be discovered afresh...horseshoe crabs, 480 km coastline and also a famous picnic spot at Chandipur beach, where one can witness an unforgettable feat of nature and can literally walk into the sea when the sea disappears for almost 5 kilometers two times a day as the tide ebbs and then slowly returns during high tide. Odisha has all this and many other allurements for intrepid eco-tourists looking for meaningful encounters with new worlds, the people and animals who inhabit them.

 The geographic narratives of Odisha’s coastal region and luxuriant forestlands are richly involved in the dissemination of the state’s cultural delights and wilderness heritage. Visitors come here to enjoy enriching experiences of its marine heritage and forest culture and in the process are exposed to the local economic activities, lifestyles, beliefs and customs of the villages shaped by their richly accoutred environs, be it waterfront or forest enclave living. Encounters with the land and the people make for a richer understanding of the dependences and emotional ties that bind the two, and in some small measure, through correct eco-tourism practices, visitors add their shared experiences to enhance the world of these communities.

Odisha’s Protected Area expanses (about 4.25 percent of its total geographical area) are best experienced by the ecotourist looking for a unique and learning-giving holiday. Its topography, a rich amalgam of sea and land, is delineated by the verdant Eastern Ghats and the floodplains of its roiling rivers and astonishing marine expanses. 

Bhitarkanika Sanctuary

Tikarpara Gharial Sanctuary (Satkosia Tiger Reserve) 

Chilika Lagoon 

Simlipal Tiger Reserve 

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Ajanta & Ellora Caves - Maharashtra

Located 100 km apart, the Ajanta Caves, containing Buddhist monasteries, and Ellora, famous for its Hindu and Jain temples, are a great way to give schoolgoing kids a practical history lesson. Now declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the area was discovered accidentally by a British hunting party in 1819. Since then magnificent sculptures and cave paintings dating back to 100 BC have been revealed.

At Ajanta, caves for teaching and learning were ornamented by intricate sculptures and exquisite art work. Square dormitory cells are cut into the walls. Ellora’s monumental caves represent the zenith of Indian rock cut architecture. 

Aurangabad is well-connected by rail and air to most parts of the country and taxi tours covering both sights are on offer from there. Quality lodging is easy to come by at Ajanta and Ellora.

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Madikeri

Covered by coffee plantations all over its rolling hills, Madikeri greets the traveler with a heady fragrance of coffee blossoms. Madikeri is located more than 1,500 above sea levels and is the district head quarters of Kadagu (or Coorg ), 250 kms from Bangalore. Also known as the Scotland of the East, Kodagu in home to the martial race, the Kodavas.
The 19th century fort here was the scene of many battles. Today it houses a temple, a chapel, a prison and a small museum.
Raja’s Seat gives a beautiful mountain view. Built in 1820, the Omkareshvara temple here is a mix of Islamic and Gothic styles in architecture.

Head for Kudremukh , the second highest peak in the western ghats , and enjoy a combination of trekking and camping lasting 3-4 days.
Tadiyendamol in Kodagu, is also excellent for trekking, and so is the Kodachadri Range in Shimoga District, Kumaraparvath in Dakshina Kannada, Mullayangiri near Sakleshpur BR Hills, Nandi Hills and Male Mahadeshwar Hills. Apart from this, Yana, 60 kms from Karwar is rocky region and is very popular with rock-climbers. 

If you are looking for some cool, refreshing moments, reach out to the Gurupur river, 8 kms from Mangalore, for windsurfing. River rafting can be enjoyed in the rapids of the Couvery River. 

Kamataka offers you nature, adventure, fresh air, leaving behind a fresh you, in the bargain.

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It's time for 'Experiential Tourism' in Odisha

Odisha - The land of Lord jagganath is poised to take a giant leap into the realm of ‘Experiential Tourism’. Experiential Tourism today is a modern buzzword in the industry in the new millennium. be it for the discerning traveller, the quintessential neighborhood travel agent or the online marketplace. The whole Indian travel industry is excited about the options Odisha puts up for them as a business opportunity.

The options in Odisha are various and multidimensional to say the least. The basket of selection is exciting enough for the tourists and at the same time ensures good returns due to being away from the routine market. 

Be it the rare mass nesting phenomena of Olive Ridley turtle’s annual visitation in summer for laying their eggs, or visiting the Crocodile Sanctuary in mid-year and the tiger reserves stretching up to the romance of a peaceful weekend on the pristine waters of Asia’s largest brackish water lake with choice of sea food options - Odisha has it all. Winter months are decked up with events of national and international repute, which gives a tantalising effect to all the year-end holidays in he eastern parts of India.

Apart from the numerous and unique offerings that the various religious and cultural assimilation and Cult of Jagannath preach, the teachings of Buddha and age old traditions of more than 62 tribal cultures, co existing with modern civilisation is a must see in one’s lifetime.

Apart from the numerous and unique offerings that the various religious and cultural assimilation and Cult of Jagannath preach, the teachings
of Buddha and age old traditions of more than 62 tribal cultures, co
existing with modern civilisation is a must see in one’s lifetime.

Beautiful temples, entwined everyday life of the local community, present a feeling of security here, ensuring that Gods are omnipresent in the daily chores of life.

Apart from the Rath yatra every year, the process of change of Idols in Pun Jagannath Temple, which occurs every 19 years is perhaps the one and only such event in the world and is called the Naba Kalebara Festival. The chronology of events leading up to the change of idols is nothing short of any thriller, which has been a regular event through the centuries (since 12th Century).

Naba Kalebara is an ancient ritual associated with most of the Jagannath Temples when the Idols of Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra, Subhadra and Sudarshan are replaced with the new set of Idols. The process of locating the trees for the required wood is as elaborate as the temples reputation. According to different secret protocols followed from time immemorial in the temple, the provision is there for changing of the deities. As the deities are made up of Neem tree basically, along with Musk, Sandalwood and many other rare combinations, they undergo change of ‘Vigraha’ before the ‘adhika ashaadha’ ends. Different ‘agama shastra’ followed in other parts of India for Lord Vishnu worship, such as Vaikhanasa also prescribe change of deities made up of wood under specific astrological combination, It is to be noted that the deities made of stone or metal need not be changed unless damaged, but the wooden deities are to be changed within specific gap of years and the supreme power must be installed from the old one to the new one, by secret rituals. 

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Love is a Place a Time

Lovers need escape, from prying eyes and city limits. In the season when romance is in the air, we bring you a list of 10 stunning destination that make for that perfect together getaway.

February is here. And, like always, it has brought along splendid weather, fragrant flowers and that special day of love—Valentine’s Day. Now is the time to shed the ennui and take of a 9-5 job and take a romantic break. To bond. To be away from everyone, everything. To find yourself. To know the other. To rekindle love. You google ‘romantic getaways’ and a million options pop in a jiffy. Too much information can be confounding. Don’t run to the travel agent who might get into touristy spiel. Don’t pick up the brochure and head to where everyone is heading. Explore something unusual. Do something different. Take your pick from pristine beaches and tropical islands, hill stations, mountains and the backwaters. You can chug along on a luxury train, huff up hiking trails, hold hands and hop into a hot air balloon, seek nirvana by the banks of turquoise waters... There is no dearth of options. As spring prepares to unfold its glories and love wafts in the air, here are some romantic getaway ideas for you.

Minicoy, Lakshadweep 

Minicoy is so small that you can actually hold hands and walk the entire island, which is 4.8 km long. Smack in the middle of a mighty ocean, this southernmost atoll of Lakshadweep is not a destination with a huge to-do list— Minicoy is a to-be place. 

Just be and watch time go by. But do go to see the 300-foot lighthouse and the Juma Masjid which has a collection of rare artifacts. The water is so clear that if you scuba dive 10 m, you can see marine life in natural light.

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Impressive Imphal

Imphal, Manipur’s capital city, is like any other small town —buzzing with a typical kind of energy. Movie posters and hoardings along the streets give an impression of the people’s growing aspirations. Stylish Manipuri girls zipping around on their two-wheelers are only a slight glimpse into a society that’s slowly transforming into a modern one. Book well in advance if you want good accommodation in the city’s one and only deluxe hotel, the Classic.

While in Imphal, make sure you visit the famous Khwairamband Bazaar (also known as Imma bazaar), an interesting local market run and operated solely by women. This is one place where even locals keep returning again and again for the best bargains and products ranging from freshly-caught fish to freshly-picked fruit, flowers like the lotus and vegetables straight from the farm. Begin your day early to catch the energy. I have had my best buys of herbs, kitchen ingredients and saplings of rare fruits from this market. This is also a perfect place to pick up knick- knacks and souvenirs. Handlooms and handicrafts are also available, though bargaining is essential.

Kangla Fort, considered the most important historical and archaeological site, is another place to spend time seeing. Located on the bank of the Imphal river, the fort is on a sprawling 200,000 acres of land in the heart of the city. It was built in AD 33 and was occupied by the British forces in 1891. Much later, it was occupied by the Garhwal Rifles and then the Assam Rifles until it was handed over to the people of Manipur in 2004. The only time I went was to show around a friend from overseas. In the process, I learnt about its historical significance and discovered the monuments and sites within the fort. The ruins of the citadel, deities of two Kangla Sha or dragons, ruins of the Uttra which is the ancestral coronation hall of the Manipur kings, are memorable sights.

There is another place where even locals love to go for nostalgia’s sake. This is the Polo Ground, not far from Kangla Fort. That Manipur is the birthplace of polo must never be forgotten. If you are lucky, you might just catch a polo match as some locals are reviving the game and even breeding the original ponies used for polo. 

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Ratnagiri - Footsteps of History

Set in idyllic environs, on the bank of the Keluo river, Ratnagiri is veritably a ‘Hill of Jewels’ with its sculptures and architectural structures that look magnificent even in ruins. The objects excavated point to Ratnagiri having witnessed a phenomenal growth in Buddhist art, architecture, culture and religion, and having been a great centre of Tantric Buddhism.

The focal points of the Ratnagiri ruins are the massive Stupa and Monastery 1. The mammoth stupa on the hilltop is encircled by several tiers of hundreds of votive stupas. The panoramic view of the pastoral Odishan landscape from here is stunning. A large number of fine sculptural figures dating from the fifth to the 12th centuries in terracotta, stone and ivory, plentiful Buddhist antiquities including bronze, copper and brass objects, and idols of Buddha and the Bodhisattvas produced by the lost wax technique, are part of the four-galleried museum in the excavated sprawl. The remains reveal the sculptural prowess of the artisans of the times who combined coloured chlorite stones to produce stunning pieces of art.

You will be struck by the gargantuan Monastery 1, the largest monastery excavated in Odisha. It is surrounded by a pillared verandah built around a courtyard which one enters through a spectacularly carved green doorway. The unique ceremonial gateway is the highlight of Ratnagiri and forms the high point of Buddhist decorative art in India. It leads to 24 brick cells, presumably for the monks. On the far end of the courtyard is the central sanctum adorned with an impressive giant statue of the Buddha in bhumisparsha posture. He is flanked by idols of Padmapani and Vajrapani. The massive stone sculptures of the Buddha’s head in various sizes are particularly awe-inspiring. 

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