Mand means ‘calm and unhurried’ in
Sanskrit, and this river flows as such, as if in accordance with her name, but
it also has the power to wreak havoc. Originating from the Chorabari Glacier
near Kedarnath in Uttarakhand, the Mandakini joins the Vasukiganga at
Sonprayag, then flows into the Alaknanda at Rudraprayag and the latter joins
the Bhagirathi at Devprayag. It’s like a medley of waters, and the Mandakini
displays that at all these sites. Tranquil from October to April, it turns into
a torrential river with the monsoons between June and September. The river
sends out an audible murmur if you are standing on its banks around Rudraprayag
or Guptakashi.
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Monday, 28 December 2015
Monday, 21 December 2015
The Mahanadi
The Mahanadi rises in Chhattisgarh and
travels through Odisha, while a small part also touches Madhya Pradesh. It is
bounded on the north by the Central India Hills, on the south and east by the
Eastern Ghats and on the west by the Maikala Ranges. The upper course of the
river runs north as an insignificant stream hut, after meeting the Seonath
river, its flow swells as it enters Odisha. At Sambalpur, the Hirakud Dam on
the river has formed a large manmade lake, which is also the site for some excellent views of the river. As the
Mahanadi leaves this point, it runs along a tortuous course, piercing
forest-clad gorges to enter the Bay of Bengal at False Point, in the
Jagatsinghpur district of Odisha. The name gives you an idea of the magnitude
of this river, but it doesn’t fully capture the visual magic of the Mahanadi.
Around the Satkosia Gorge and on the outskirts of Cuttack, you can see a face
of the river you won’t believe.
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Wednesday, 16 December 2015
The Ravi - River
Once called the Iravati, this river travels
about 850 km from its origin near the remote Bada Bhangal village in Himachal
Pradesh. As it traverses the mountains and narrow gorges, it gathers momentum
and enters Bharmour, Chamba and Pathankot in northern Punjab with much aplomb.
From there, it crosses the border to reach Lahore before combining with the
Chenab. The river has been a major source of life and light to the region, but
visitors are enchanted by the stunning scenery almost as soon as they reach
the river bank.
During the monsoon, it swells dramatically
and carries sediments that give it a curious blue-grey colour. If you’re around
Bada Bhangal, you can’t miss the Ravi.
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Thursday, 3 December 2015
The Sind
Those who have trekked to the Amarnath
Temple know the splendour of the Sind river. Originating in the Machoi Glacier
at about 15,748 ft, east of the temple and south of Zoji Pass, the river
flows through Panjtarni, where pilgrims pitch camp, southwards up to Domail and
turns wider after it joins a tributary, frothed out of the Kolhoi Glacier. It
meets the Wangath river at Kichpora Preng, a stream flowing down from Gangabal
Lake. On its 180-km journey through Jammu & Kashmir, the river is fed by
many tributaries like the Amarnath stream, Kolhoi Grar, Shitkadi Nallah, Gund Nall
ah, Surfraw Nallah and Wangath Nallah. The beauty of this river really takes
off as it snakes ahead through Sonmarg, the famous alpine hill station.
The views from there are pristine and beautiful, with just a hint of its mighty
flows.
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Monday, 30 November 2015
The Echoes of Timelessness
The year 2014 will make the 30th
edition of the globally-renowned Konark Dance & Music Festival. It will be
a treat for the senses.
Most tourist visit the Sun Temple in Konark
during the daytime. After all, that’s when the architectural marvel of the
temple is at its best display. The tour guides can he found enthusiastically
explaining to the visitors the scientific positioning of the temple and how one
can easily calculate what time of day it is simply by looking at
the positioning of the sun’s rays on its gigantic stone wheels.
The 13th century temple, designed in the
shape of a colossal stone chariot with seven horses and 24 wheels to
carry the sun god, takes on a completely different avatar as the
sun sets. The architectural craftsmanship transforms into a pristine
beauty rendered in stone. The month of December is even more special,
for that’s when the temple, also a World Heritage Site, turns
into the backdrop of the stage to host the Konark Dance Festival.
All forms of Indian classical dances are
showcased in this festival, organised by the Department of Tourism, Govt. of
Odisha, from December 1-5 every year. Classical dance forms like Kathakali,
Kuchipudi. Bharatnatvam and Manipuri are performed by reputed artistes of India
and abroad.
The clear night sky with stars shining bright,
adds to the magical spell of the ghungroos moving in tandem with the strings of
the sitar and the heats of the tabla at the open air auditorium of the temple.
The five-day festival this year will
include of Odissi cuisine, are also put up. Other highlights Odissi
dance performances by GKCM Odissi Research Centre of Bhubaneswar, Utkal
University of Culture, Urkal Sangeer Mohavidyalay, the Guru Durga Charan Ranbir
& Group and Nruryayan, all from Bhubaneswar. The Kathak performance will be
led by Padma Shri Sovana Narayan and her troupe from New Delhi. Padma Bhushan
Guru V.P. Dhanajyan & Group from Chennai will regale the audience with
their Bharatanatyam performances, while Padma Shri Guru Ghana Kanta Borbayan
& Group from Assam will perform Sattriya. The Kuchipudi performances will
be done Padma Shri Guru Sobha Naigu & Group from Hyderabad and Konark’s
Guru Birabara Sahoo & Group. The renowned Konark Natya Mandap will give the
Gotipua performances. Besides these, renowned international artistes will also perform
Balinese Dance and Mahari.
A crafts mela is also organised
during the festival and makes for a good place to shop for handicrafts from
Odisha. Various food stalls, serving the best of the festival are the artist
camps that exhibit Odissi temple sculptures, described aptly as poetry
transcribed on stone; and sand art exhibitions held on the beaches.
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Wednesday, 18 November 2015
Unicorn Land Kaziranga
Kaziranga is a place where the diverse landscape
offers you a chance to get up close with magnificent beasts.
Dawn is just breaking we’re all muffled up against
the morning chill as we watch the countryside sweep past the , slightly
fogged-up windows. A sliver of a sun-ray cuts through the morning mists,
setting afire the dewdrops clinging like newborn crystals on the grassy verge
as the Trinova sweeps past tea estates and shanty towns coming to life for the
day. The morning is crisp and cool and there’s a glorious feeling of new
beginnings as we hasten to one of the world’s finest game parks; Kaziranga
National Park in Assam, and one of the last bastions of char rare earthly
unicorn.... the Great Indian One-horned Rhino— endangered and once facing
extinction because of the ruthless hunting and poaching of this prehensile
beast... believed to have some magical aphrodisiacal properties in that
legendary born!
It’s taken a year of rigorous plotting and
planning—this safari holiday—and my friends and I are still pinching ourselves
as a reminder that we’ve managed to pull it oft. We weren’t able to catch the
same-day afternoon jeep safari at Kaziranga, having missed getting an early
morning flight—so we are determined to pack in as much as we can while we are
here.
For reasons best known to providence, I never got to visit Kaziranga when my husband was stationed near Tezpur (another access pint to the game park). It’s the peak season (November-April) and the park resorts arc booked to capacity so we get to stay with an old planter friend in Jorhat, a two-hour haul from the park. It’s also an excellent place for exploring this glorious slice of Assam embellished with stunning rivers capes of the mighty Brahmaputra, river, the lifeline of the stare.
The vehicle line-up waiting at the gate is hungry to take off on the designated trails in the three tourist zones of Kohra (Central), Baghori (Western) and Agartoli (Eastern). The elephant safari is actually the most exciting way to experience the game park... the problem, however, is that because of the limited number of elephants available, not all visitors have access to the safari. So we were feeling particularly lucky and privileged to have managed the elephant-back ticket on the first day.
It’s unbelievable how silently this great beast can
move when need be. Not a sound emerges from the crackle-ready dry leaves
underfoot in the forest as it negotiates its way up a steep incline to take us
down again to a shaded pool... where, to our delight, we find our first
rhino. Standing knee-deep in the marshy water, he looks up unperturbed at our
arrival and continues enjoying his leisurely breakfast. Having never seen a
rhino, leave alone one in its natural habitat, mycky slicker friends squeal in
restrained delight as their cameras go into overdrive. No selfie with this
celeb since you can’t start wandering around on foot in the jungle! Pig-eyed
and ponderous he may appear to be but, once roused, a charging rhino can never
be taken lightly.
The sun's growing heat has burnt away the morning mists
and a cloudless azure blue sky vaults over the treeline and rolling savannah
lining the banks of the river, Muddy and silt-rich after the monsoons, its
rippling surface hides the reality of its murderous and deeply-feared undertow.
We regretted the lack of time to fit in one of those splendid Brahmaputra river
cruises on offer from the Guwahati-based Assam Bengal Navigation Company which also offers a cruise to Kaziranga
National Park. What a fabulous way to enjoy the Kaziranga experience! Maybe
next time. But you should try and spend a holiday at their award-winning Diphhi
River Lodge which lies in close proximity to the game park.
The Kaziranga National Park is Assam’s visited national parks. Declared a
National Park in 1974, it was recognised as a UNESCO-acclaimed Natural World
Heritage Site in 1985. This gave the diminishing number of rhinos in India a
fighting chance. In December 2013, the Kaziranga National Park had a record
2,290 rhinos.
Set along the southern bank of the Brahmaputra, the
858-sq-km sprawl of the game park is not only ideal for rhino-spotting, it’s
also a designated Tiger Reserve under Project Tiger and offers great
possibilities for tiger-spotting as well. We missed one of the big cats by a
whisker at a waterhole after a kill which he’d dragged deep into the foliage
close by. Leopards are known to hide the remains of their kill in a tree, but
the wary tiger, not much of a tree climber, has to protect his kill even more
fiercely from the likes of hyenas (we spy a couple lurking in the distant
bushes) and hawk-eyed kites (whirling in great gatherings overhead).
The next three days are action-packed. We follow wild
elephants and look for sloth bears. We fill our waiting moments enthralled by
birdsong and laugh at monkeys’ antics. We wait patiently at waterholes for
thirsty leopards and tigers. Then we reluctantly return to dinners of
home-cooked fare. By the river one morning, we watch an otter emerge sleek and
wet, and then dive back in a flash to catch a vaulting fish. We drive through
swathes of rolling tea estates and one afternoon find ourselves, over nimbu sodas,
watching golfers tee off from the first hole by the verandah of the beautiful
Kaziranga Golf Resort, filled with a stunning collection of art by its owner,
Assam’s legendary tea baron, H.P Barooah, from all over the world.
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Friday, 6 November 2015
Tales of the Calm Waters
Chilika Lake in
Odisha welcomes migratory birds from all parts of the world and is home to a
variety of unique flora and fauna.
With a nip in the air felt now and then, we can realise that
winter is coming. The season, for a lot of us, brings along its own charms and
surprises in the form of natural bounty. One example is at Chilika Lake in Odisha, which shows the best of itself in the cold
months. An estuarine lagoon, it is the largest inland brackish water body in
Asia. Spread over 1,100 sq km, it is connected to the sea by a 32-km-long
channel running parallel to the Bay of Bengal. The Zoological Survey of India has recorded about 800 species of fauna in this place, including the endangered
Irrawaddy dolphins and migratory birds
from countries as far as Siberia.
Come winter, it is the peak migratory season for the birds
and over 160 species of them will
visit the lake. Some of the regular visitors include white-bellied sea eagles, greylag
geese, purple moorhens, jacanas, herons, flamingos, egrets, gray
and purple herons, the Indian
roller, storks, white ibis, spoonbills, Brahminy ducks, shovellers, pintails
and many more.
Several islands dot the lagoon. The Nalabana bird sanctuary
here has the highest concentration of birds. A major island in the centre of
the lake, it remains fully submerged during the monsoon months before the water
level drops in the winter months, making way for marshy land and the arrival of
avifaunal visitors.
But the tale of Chilika Lake can’t be complete without
mention of the Irrawaddy dolphins, which are the main draw of this place. It
is, after all, the only known place in India where one can see this particular
species. With a population which is still not too high, these dolphins have
been classified as critically endangered. The best way for travellers to take a
look at them is on a boat ride. In any case, the ride is a treat for
photographers who can capture the beauty of the natural surroundings and the
fauna at large--t he lake hosts some 250 species of fish and a daz1ing array of
aquatic and non-aquatic plants. While on a visit to Chilika Lake, a tourist can
choose to visit the other places of interest around, including Pun, the famed
Nirmaljhar waterfall and picturesque Satpada, among others.
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Thursday, 29 October 2015
Home on The Range
Munnar with its rolling countryside and spreading plantations, is best enjoyed by living in a homestay.
When the British planters clambered up the hills to the confluence of three streams running out of the Kannan Devan range carrying the first of the tea saplings, and in time, carpeting the favourable slopes with lush tracts of tea plantations, heralding the mushrooming of estate bungalows, little did they know. That, by the turn of the century, Munnar (literally, ‘three rivers’) would be rated one of the most popular hill stations of the Indian south.
Apart from cups of tea—and showcasing the beverage’s fabled origin, recounted in a visit-worthy museum—this idyllic locale includes lush and rolling hillsides, languorous clouds, gurgling brooks and a nippy chill. But the Munnar experience is incomplete without reliving the days of its old world charm—stacked sacks reminiscent of the spice trade, the influence of its colonial past on the charming real estate of today, although little remains, and the warmth of the Malayalis—when you happen to stay in one of the laid-back home stays. But don’t expect services and, with frequent power outages, be prepared for at least one candle-light evening.
With impeccable hospitality is a recommended option. The large terrace on the upper floor opens out into perhaps the best view, especially delightful for that morning cuppa. It is backed by three delightful rooms. A sumptuous breakfast comes with the room, but other meals are equally worth digging into. The host is always eager to lend his presence tor a network of short walks around vanilla and pepper plants, imparting insights about the Munnar spice story. For women, there are always cooking lessons available from the hostess. And don’t call it a day without taking another short walk to see the mesmerizing sunset over the tea plantations.
14 km from Munnar proper, is another great stay option with large rooms amidst thick plantations and the aroma of spices. Opt for the rooms at the back on the upper floor and keep your budget a little flexible. This farmhouse-look home-stay on the main Kochi Munnar highway sits in an idyllic two acres of plantation and here too the hosts are eager to share knowledge about home-grown species. Expect to be away from the idiot box. Instead, you might be exchanging travel tips with other guests.
The open deck outside the upper two rooms is a vantage point, where one can spend hours listening to the sorority of winged species. A pocket-friendly option, Greenspaces sits amid a swathe of lush natural cardamom deep in the woods. After sunset, the surroundings become pitch-dark and it is preferable to get in early from Munnar’s must-dos. You will be spoiled by the coal-fired barbeque under the stars.
It overlooks the bustle of Munnar, yet is private enough, with flowers blooming in the small garden. The place has three spacious rooms, each named after a decor theme— Woody, Sky Blue and Bamboo. The caretaker can offer no more than tea and coffee but is more than willing to get food from restaurants around. Sarvana Bhawan, a popular South Indian eatery, is a short walk away.
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Monday, 26 October 2015
Tadkeshwar - Uttarakhand
Tadkeshwar is a perfect
weekend destination. To get there, you can take the Mussoorie Express from
Delhi to Kotdwar and then hire a taxi or a shared jeep. A more interesting way
to get there is by trekking from Lansdowne (about 40 km from Kotdwar), enjoying
the white daisies blooming on the hillsides and drinking cups of sweet tea at
the tiny hamlets on the way, chatting about the place and the weather with
friendly locals. By road, Tadkeshwar is 36 km from Lansdowne hut if you have
the temperament to walk, an interesting trek on a shorter route of
approximately 15 km takes you to the old temple which is at 6,000 feet. On the road you find a few shops selling biscuits and chips. From
there a gentle walk of 100 metres takes you to the temple complex, which is
marked off by bells strung on ropes. Set in a verdant bowl in the middle of a
lush green deodar forest, the temple has a compelling serenity. A small dharamshala
right next to the temple can accommodate tourists keen on doing a night
stay.
The main deity of Tadkeshwar
is Lord Shiva and the temple accepts bell offerings for wishes that come true.
Though its mythological draw is that Goddess Parvati is said to have prayed
here and it is believed to be one of the ancient holy sites or siddhapitas, in
terms of scenic beauty and silence Tadkeshwar can offer a lot to the atheist as
well.
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Tuesday, 20 October 2015
Phutka Pahad - Chhattisgarh
Undulating hills, lush
valleys, waltzing streams, prowling wild animals-nature is at her resplendent
best in Phutka Pahad, 1,570 feet above sea level. Visit the old fort of
Kosagaigarh, encircled by natural walls and camouflaged by dense vegetation. It
can be accessed only through a tunnel that was used for rolling down rocks on
the enemy.
Phutka Pahad is a monochrome
in rich greens and the drive to its top is breathtakingly scenic, and the
hairpin bends are almost vertical in some sections. Once on top, get a peek
into the town of Korba with the towering chimneys from its industrial plants
and the meandering Hasdeo river. A variety of birds belt out notes that are
music to the ears. Shutterbugs can delight in capturing some of these feathered
creatures.
Don’t miss the scenic environs
of Korba itself, all within a 25-km radius. Enjoy alluring Devpehri with its
Govind Kunj waterfalls on the bank of the Chornai river. Drench yourself at any
of several levels of the cascade. Join other picnickers and enjoy rock climbing
and swimming. Play ‘aqua football.’ Then head to Satrange Lake and enjoy
boating in its tranquil surroundings.
Except for the local population,
the outside world is as yet unaware of Phutka Pahad. Hence there is no tourist
infrastructure of any kind, except very good roads right to the top. While you
can spend an entire day in the lap of nature at Phutka Pahad, you must carry
sufficient food, snacks and water for your visit.
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Monday, 5 October 2015
Deobalod (Chhattisgarh)
Travel on NH 6 from Raipur to Durg, about three km
from Bhilai, and come upon Deobalod, a hamlet. Weave your way through narrow
alleyways of a sleepy, nondescript village to come upon the little-known
11th-century red sandstone temple of Shiva, perhaps the oldest temple honouring
this deity in Chhattisgarh. It stands desolate. Yet, the edifice has about it a
certain sense of majesty that is difficult to resist. Much of the exterior
walls of the temple are sculpted upon with the pantheon of Hindu deities,
warriors, dancing men and women and animals, particularly elephants and horses,
each carved with its unique identity.
A weather-beaten Nandi greets us at the entrance to
the temple that has a 13-m-deep pond adjoining it. Legend has it that the pond
has an underground passageway to Aarang, another old town close to Raipur, the
state capital. It is obvious that the temple must have had a grand tower in its
days of glory. The sanctum sanctorum, located below ground level, houses a Shivling,
which is still worshipped. Exquisitely sculpted pillars arranged in two
rows of five each, hold aloft the mandap or hall leading to the sanctum.
Also, hop over to Bhilai’s beautifully lands caped Maitri Bagh. The musical
fountain, toy train and artificial waterfalls are crowd-pullers. Within a
radius of 60 km from Deobalod, one may visit Tandula Dam, the Ganga Maiya
Temple
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Tuesday, 29 September 2015
In Search of Salvationville in India
Three lesser-known Buddhist sites in India, located in the most
beautiful natural surroundings.
Among the many elements that make a Buddhist monastery an oasis of
tranquility, including the quiet ambience and simplicity of the interiors,
there is one intangible factor that can be sensed by one and all—the aura of
calm.
Gautam Buddha’s preachings of detachment and peace radiate from the
nooks and cranies of these places of worship for those who belong to the
Buddhist faith. No matter how crowded it might be, every Buddhist site in this
country can make one feel enveloped by serenity. While Bodhgaya, Sarnath and
Sanchi are some of the most frequently visited Buddhist sites, there are others
which are a little off the beaten track yet worth visiting for every traveller
in India.
Happy valley Uttarakhand
Mussoorie in Uttarakhand has always been a favoured destination for
holidayers, especially for people in Delhi who find it convenient to drive to
this nearby hill station. If you are among those who find it getting a little
too crowded at times, do venture out to the upper reaches of the outskirts of
the main town. Few people know of a place called Happy Valley, which has a
Tibetan population of about 5,000 and has the Shedup Choephelling Temple at the highest
point of the valley, atop a cliff. It was the first Tibetan shrine built in
India, consecrated by the Dalai Lama.
What adds significance to Happy Valley is that this is the place where Tibetans lived at first when they fled to India from their homeland in 1959. Later, they moved to Dharamsala. The abundance of oak and deodar trees makes the place shady and beautiful. It is clean and free of litter, and fragrant marigold bushes surround the shrine. The evenings are soothing, permeated by the chanting of prayers and the resonating blowing of trumpets by the monks.
What adds significance to Happy Valley is that this is the place where Tibetans lived at first when they fled to India from their homeland in 1959. Later, they moved to Dharamsala. The abundance of oak and deodar trees makes the place shady and beautiful. It is clean and free of litter, and fragrant marigold bushes surround the shrine. The evenings are soothing, permeated by the chanting of prayers and the resonating blowing of trumpets by the monks.
Sanjauli Himachal Pradesh
The former summer capital of the country, Shimla, in Himachal Pradesh,
is another popular hill station that hordes of people visit in all seasons. If
summer tourists come to escape the scorching heat of the plains, the winter
ones come to enjoy the spectacle and experience of frost and snow. Amidst the
tourist influx, there is one quiet place in the suburbs, yet within the
boundaries of the town, that not every visitor hears of and goes to-Sanjauli.
The approach to Sanjauli is delightful. There are literally thousands of
prayer flags all over the place. Each one has Buddhist prayers and images of
the mystic Wind Horse printed on it. The locals believe that when the winds
coming down from the upper Shivalik ranges pass through these flags, they carry
the blessings in the prayers on the wings of the Wind Horse to the residents of
the settlement.
The place was established in 1962 by Lama Jinpa, a prominent Tibetan
refugee monk. It was he who built the Jonang Takten Phuntsok Choeling monastery
at the top of Sanjauli hill. Besides the calming effect that the monastery has,
the place also boasts of some breathtaking views of the mountains and it is
blessed with lush surroundings. It is the sort of place nature-lovers will
cherish.
Dhankar Himachal Pradesh
Farther north in Himachal Pradesh is Spiti valley at an altitude of
12,500 ft. Truly isolated and nestled in the lap of nature, this cold desert
valley is surrounded by high mountain ranges. It has many Buddhist sites which
are rated as being among the best. Being close to Tibet, it also has some of
the oldest monasteries.
Dhankar monastery is the most ancient, built at the highest point of
Spiti valley. It has centuries of history behind it and is believed to have
been an important centre of Buddhist learning. The new monastery has been
constructed at Shichilling village and houses about 150 lamas. The statue of
Vairochana or the Meditating Buddha sits at the heart of the shrine.
The monastery also has some ancient murals, thangkas, and
Buddhist scriptures. It provides a wonderful experience for those who love to
travel to places which are remote and located in forbidding terrain. The
Dhankar lake, fed by glacial melt, is nearby. The Kyi and Tabo monasteries are
two other well known shrines in the area which have gained popularity among
tourists, both Indian and foreign.
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Monday, 28 September 2015
Into The Green
Walking trails in the west of
India are a great summer getaway option.
Hiking is usually undertaken in the Himalaya and, because of the exodus
to high altitudes in the east and north of India; trails in the west have
become more attractive to those looking for communion with nature. Here are a
few to get you started.
Matheran Maharashtra
At Matheran, there’s no other way to get around but walk. Despite a rush
of tourists, the ban on motor vehicles has helped preserve the lushness, and
keep the area free of pollution. About 2,500 ft above sea level in the Western Ghats,
it is accessed easily from Mumbai (90 km) and Pune (120 km). Of the 38 look-out
points, Panorama Point is the most popular because of the 360-degree view of
the hills around. Louisa Point, Monkey Point, Porcupine Point and One-Tree-Hill Point are the other spots
worth the trudge. The ecologically sensitive zone is populated by local tree
species like Iokhandi, agaswel,
dudhvel panphuti and hirda, and many more. Fruit
like jamun and mangoes
grow in these hills.
The weather is pleasantly chilly throughout the year. Vehicles are
permitted up to Dasturi Naka, two kilometres before Matheran. Then, hire a pony
or walk along the rail track.
Bhandardara Maharashtra
A few hours’ drive from Mumbai (about 185 km), Bhandardara is the ideal
detour if you are en route to neighbouring Shirdi (90 km), Nashik (70 km) or
Trimbakeshwar. This jewel of the Sahyadri range has a sprinkling of nature retreats amidst undulating, wooded terrain. While you could drive to sightseeing locales like Arthur Lake, Wilson Dam (built in 1910), Umbrella Falls, Shivaji’s Ratnagad Fort or the Agasti Rishi ashram, the highlight of your Bhandardara experience would be a trek to Maharashtra’s highest peak— Mt. Kalsubai. It is over 5,400 ft above sea level, with a temple at the summit. The trek requires fitness, and you can opt for a gentler walk to Ratnagad Fort instead. The latter involves a boat ride over a clear lake at Ratanwadi.
Trimbakeshwar. This jewel of the Sahyadri range has a sprinkling of nature retreats amidst undulating, wooded terrain. While you could drive to sightseeing locales like Arthur Lake, Wilson Dam (built in 1910), Umbrella Falls, Shivaji’s Ratnagad Fort or the Agasti Rishi ashram, the highlight of your Bhandardara experience would be a trek to Maharashtra’s highest peak— Mt. Kalsubai. It is over 5,400 ft above sea level, with a temple at the summit. The trek requires fitness, and you can opt for a gentler walk to Ratnagad Fort instead. The latter involves a boat ride over a clear lake at Ratanwadi.
Saputara Gujarat
On the Gujarat-Maharashtra border, the area around hilly Saputara
abounds with waterfalls, sanctuaries and nature parks. The local government’s
zeal in developing the area as Gujarat’s only hill station is apparent in the
form of cable cars, step-gardens and a designated sunset/sunrise point. But
fear not, you could always escape to the tiny Vansda National Park, reported to have tigers and leopards, or the relatively bigger Purna Sanctuary with its bamboo groves and walking trails. Prior
permission is required for hiking and camping expeditions. Gira Waterfalls (52 km) is a nice spot to hike or picnic at, while
enjoying conditions typical of this part of the ancient Dang forests. You could drive to Saputara from Mumbai (225 km) or Surat (175 km).
Chorla Ghat Goa
Forsake the sun and sand of Goa for the cool, green hills of Chorla
Ghat, a great off-roading destination at the intersection of the Goa,
Karnataka and Maharashtra borders. About 50 km north-east of Panaji,
the sub-tropical forests of the area abound with rare species like the barred wolf-snake. Since roads into these
hills are virtually non-existent, nature-lovers willing to risk taking a ride
into Chorla are rewarded with nature’s bounty and total isolation, It’s a great
place to spend the day watching birds and butterflies. A local nature
conservation facility called Wildernest was set up with the specific intent of
learning more about the Western Ghats’
biodiversity, so the area is frequented by genuine ecologists and
conservationists. You can stay, take walking tours with experts, and experience
nature with a handful of like-minded residents.
Panchgani Maharashtra
This hill town of Maharashtra’s Satara district derives its name from
the five hills of the Sahyadri range that surround it.
Just 18 km short of Mahabaleshwar,
these slopes remain cool and moist through most of the year due to the
altitude—over 4,000 ft above sea
level. The snaking Krishna river is
visible to one side, and the coastal plains to the other. The best way to enjoy
these views is on foot, below the canopy of trees that shades walkways through
the quaint town. British-era
constructions are a common sight, and treks to the Pandavgadh Caves or the ‘Table-Land’ plateau must be
undertaken. You could also spend your day learning more about organic farming
at one of the commercial farms around the town. It is easily accessible from Mumbai (285 km) and Pune (100 km). Since
this happens to be one of Maharashtra’s more
popular tourist locales, regular bus connections to the town are also
available.
Thursday, 24 September 2015
Buddhist Circuit Footprints of Enlightenment
The
Buddhist sites, which traces the spread of Buddhism and its rich heritage in
South India, is both a walk through ancient history and a pilgrimage to sacred
sites.
Amaravati
Amaravati, sitting by the bank of the Krishna in Guntur district, was the capital of the Satavahanas between the 2nd century BC and the 3rd century, and also a major learning centre, fostering the arts and serving as fertile ground for the growth of Buddhism. Here you can see the Amaravati Stupa, the largest in the country, though only parts of it remain. An Ashoka pillar found during excavations stands testimony to the arrival of Mauryan art in South India. To
Adurru
The Godavari branches out to become the Vainetaya here and the village of Adurru is located on its bank, not far from the coastline of East Godavari district. Excavations here over 60 years ago revealed a mahastupa measuring 17 feet across with a raised platform running around it. The excavations also brought up shards of jars and utensils from centuries ago.
Nagarjunakonda
Nagarjunakonda is an island near the Nagarjuna Sagar dam in Guntur district, where Buddhism put down deep roots centuries ago. During the time that it was the capital of the lkshvaku dynasty, Buddhism received the patronage of the rulers and spread across the region. Here, you can now see the main stupa, believed to contain relics of the Buddha. You can also soak in the richness of this past at the island museum created in the midst of the lake. Built to resemble a vihara, it showcases some fine relics of Buddhist art, including a monolithic statue of the Buddha which exudes serenity, even if it’s mostly in ruins.
Thotlakonda
One of the high points of the Andhra Pradesh Buddhist circuit is Thotlakonda, not far from Visakhapatnam. Excavations have revealed that this was the site of a major monastery, chosen for its location—a haven sheltered from the sea. Researchers believe that a Hinayana Buddhist complex thrived here some 2,000 years ago. Visitors to Thotlakonda can walk through a place where Gautama Buddha was worshipped through symbols like Pudukas.
Bavikonda
One of the most sacred sites of Buddhism, Bavikonda — meaning Hill of Wells — is also one of the oldest. Today it stands as a reminder of the Buddhist-centric civilisation that once flourished here. Archaelogists and historians have traced in Bavikonda a sprawling Buddhist establishment that included a mahachaitya containing relics, a vihara complex, several stupas, a pillared congregation hall and other spaces.
Pavuralakonda
Just 20-plus km away from Visakhapatnam is Pavuralakonda, where the remains of a Buddhist settlement dating back to between the 1st century BC and the 2nd century are to be found. As with other sacred sites in the region, excavations revealed a thriving Buddhist settlement with the remains of viharas, chaitya grihas and votive stupas found here. The traveller to Pavuralakonda will also see a series of rock-cut troughs, possibly for fresh water, besides Brahmi inscriptions.
Ramathirtham
Ramathirtham in Nellore district is known for its Ramalingeswara Swamy Temple, dedicated to Shiva and his consort, Kamakshamma. It is believed also that Lord Rama spent a night here while looking for Sita and at dawn shaped a shivfing out of sand and worshipped it. Now, it has also become a site on the Buddhist circuit in Andhra Pradesh after excavations unearthed a mound, believed to be from a Buddhist structure, near the temple.
Dantapuram
The quiet air of this village in Srikakulam district may not, at first, give you any indication of the religious and historical significance of the place. It derives its name from the sacred tooth relic of the Buddha and flourished under Kalinga rule. It is believed that the tooth relic of the Buddha, now housed at the Dalada Maligawa in Kandy, Sri Lanka, was taken there from Dantapuram.
Salihundam
The village of Salihundam, near Srikakulam town, sits atop a hill overlooking the Vamsadhara River. It is rich with traces from a Buddhist civilisation several centuries old and continues to draw travellers from across the globe. Against the picturesque backdrop of the hills you’ll find stupas and shrines, which have been unearthed by excavations in the area. The findings here are traced back to the period between the 2nd and 12th centuries, and reflect the many forms of Buddhism — Mahayana, Theravada and Vajrayana. Sculptures of Mareechi and Tara were also found at this sacred spot.
Ghantasala
Ohantasala, a short drive from Machilipatnam, isa gem on the Andhra Pradesh Buddhist circuit. Travellers come here to see the remains of sculptures and a stupa that reflect the Buddhist past of Ghantasala. The stupa here is considered to be of a singular design, with the cubical block of bricks adorned by the 12 zodiac signs. The dome of the stupa, it is believed, was decorated with slabs depicting the Buddha. While some of Ghantasala’s treasures have been spirited away, it is still a place to see some fine remnants of its glorious and sacred past — such as the Buddha statues and Buddhist art at the museum here.
For more details about: Golden Triangle with Buddhist Circuit, Budget Tour India and Customized Tour India.
Sunday, 20 September 2015
Amazing Adventure Experiences
There’s something about adrenaline pumping action that makes you defy
gravity and throw caution to the wind. These are the most amazing experiences for
the adventure hungry.
Water Sports
Rishikesh is synonymous with water
sports and it has long since earned the sobriquet of ‘white water capital of India.’ Though the mighty Ganga and her rapids
provide excitement in Rishikesh for rafters, river ratting is also possible down
south—in places like Dandeli and Bheemeshwari, perfect for beginners and non-swimmers.
Surfing
Surfing is a fast emerging sport along
India’s vast coastline, thanks to its many secluded beaches. Favourable wave
conditions in Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Kerala make surfing possible throughout
the year, except during the monsoon. Karnataka’s coastline, Manapad in Tamil
Nadu and Kerala’s Varkala beach are slowly being explored by surfing
enthusiasts. Beginners must be swimmers.
Scuba Diving
The implosive silence of the deep blue
sea and its depths stores millions of beautiful creatures. If exploring the
depths of the ocean and coming face to face with gorgeous coral reefs and
marine life, including great barracudas, stingrays, stonefish, black and white
tip sharks and Napoleon wrasse interests you, India offers plenty of
opportunities. Though the Andamans and their Havelock Island have long carved a
niche in scuba diving, Goa, Karnataka’s Netrani Island and Pondicherry are
joining the list.
Motorcycle Adventures
If the wind in your hair makes you wax
lyrical and taking to the tarmac on a motorcycle is your thing, motorcycle adventures in India will give you the time of your life.
Barring the poor roads in cities, the national highways are largely in perfect shape. Add to it
the lure of stunning vistas, with beguiling and diverse landscapes from flat to
mountainous and getting lost never felt so good. The Himalaya have always
ranked high on the bucket list of motorcyclists, especially for the popular Manali-Leh ride in the summer.
For more details about: Motor Biking Tour India
Rock
Climbing
India’s varied topography is blessed
with boulders and rock faces and allows plenty of opportunities for blundering,
free rock climbing, solo climbing, aid climbing, and alpine climbing. Karnataka’s boulder-rich landscape is conducive for rock climbing and
so are many climbing sites in the Western Ghats. Begin your rock climbing with
aid climbing and rappelling with the help of a trained guide (like Diwan Singh in my case at
Camp Paradise) in the Western Ghats. If you want a dose of ultimate adventure,
you should perhaps look at climbing in the famed Spiti valley in Himachal
Pradesh.
Long-Distance Cycling
When I finished my first cycling trip,
that lasted two
days
and covered a total distance of around 200 km, I felt that my knees had turned
into liquid. I walked weirdly for a week afterwards and my right thumb was
jammed in one position, rendering my palm effectively useless. All these
factors did not stop me from enrolling in the next cycling expedition. I have
done a couple more after having learned the tricks to avoid jammed thumbs and
liquid knees by taking it easy. Cycling can be demanding but it is also
rewarding.
For more details about: Cycling Tour of India
Paragliding
Buckled in a harness, floating in the
air while drinking in the sight of the landscape several metres below, brushing
shoulders with
birds
of prey, paragliding is an incredible flying experience.
Hundreds of adventure sport enthusiasts are being trained every year by paragliding schools across the country. Sunny climes and moderate winds in areas like Yelagiri (Tamil Nadu), Nandi Hills (Karnataka) and Kamshet (Maharashtra) have made them popular destinations.
Hundreds of adventure sport enthusiasts are being trained every year by paragliding schools across the country. Sunny climes and moderate winds in areas like Yelagiri (Tamil Nadu), Nandi Hills (Karnataka) and Kamshet (Maharashtra) have made them popular destinations.
Skydiving
No longer do you have to fly out of
India for skydiving. Mysore is becoming a skydivers’ haunt in India. Tandem
Jumps, Static Jumps and Accelerated Free fall are offered with expert supervision and safety measures by trained professionals. If you are a healthy
adult with no fear of heights, nothing should stop you from trying skydiving
and your share of experiencing swimming in the clouds.
Trekking and Mountaineering
From delightful easy treks in the
Western Ghats in the South to the Valley of Flowers trek in the north to
hardcore mountaineering expeditions in Ladakh, trekking and mountaineering
offer inclusively for both the novice adventurer and the accomplished
mountaineer. Ranging from weekend treks to month-long expeditions, trekking
companies offer more than a handful of options.
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